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香水

  Reading Explorer2 UNIT 7A 

  香水，總是使人將其和時尚，精致的奢華聯(lián)系起來。

History Of Perfumes

選自：https://perfumencologne.com

編譯：蜜雪老師

We all wear perfumes on a daily basis. 

But have you wondered how it came into existence or how it evolvedto be what it is today? 

That is exactly what you will learn from this article.

人們每天都用香水。但你有沒有想過它是如何產(chǎn)生的，又是如何進(jìn)化成今天這樣的?這正是你將從本文中學(xué)到的，能幫助你更好理解課文香水的前生今世。 

01

Chapter 1

Egypt 埃及

Egyptians were the inventors of perfume. They thought it was the sweat of the sun god Ra.

They used it for religious and burial ceremonies and also forbeautification. 

Their God of perfume wore a head dress made of water lilies which was a major ingredient in their perfume. 

Archaeologists have also uncovered many Egyptian recipes andelaborate prescriptions for perfume-making. 

Only the rich elites had the luxury of adorning themselves with perfumes signifying their status.

As all ancient perfumes, the Egyptian perfumes had an oil base unlike many modern perfumes which have an alcohol base.

Egyptians imported huge amounts of perfume ingredients from Africa to an extent such that perfume trade was a big part of international relations for both of the regions.

  埃及人是香水的發(fā)明者。他們認(rèn)為那是太陽神的汗水。

  他們把香水用于宗教和葬禮儀式，也用于美化作用。  他們的香水之神穿著一件睡蓮做的頭飾，睡蓮是他們香水的主要成分。

  考古學(xué)家還在埃及發(fā)現(xiàn)了許多精密復(fù)雜的配方，用以制作香水。

  只有富有的社會精英們才能用香水這樣的奢侈品來彰顯他們的地位。  和所有的古代香水一樣，埃及香水的基礎(chǔ)是油，而現(xiàn)代香水的基礎(chǔ)是酒精。

  埃及人當(dāng)時從非洲進(jìn)口了大量的香水原料，以至于香水貿(mào)易成為這兩個國家國際關(guān)系的重要組成部分。

02

Chapter 2

Persia  波斯

The ancient Persian royal class was highly interested in perfumes. It was regular for rulers like Darius and Xerxes to be painted with perfume bottles in Persian art. 

The Persians dominated the perfume trade for a long time and it is believed that their innovations led to the discovery of the distillationprocess which led to perfumes having an alcohol base like we have today. 

Avicenna, the Persian doctor, chemist and philosopher experimented with distillation to try and make better scents and discovered the chemistry behind perfumes that weren’t oil-based.

  古代波斯王室對香水非常感興趣。像達(dá)利斯和賽瑟斯（波斯王）這樣的統(tǒng)治者經(jīng)常用香水瓶來畫波斯藝術(shù)。

  波斯人在很長一段時間里主導(dǎo)著香水貿(mào)易。人們相信是他們的創(chuàng)新導(dǎo)致了蒸餾過程的發(fā)現(xiàn)，蒸餾過程使得今天的香水具有了酒精基底。

  阿維森納是波斯的醫(yī)生、化學(xué)家和哲學(xué)家。他嘗試試驗(yàn)用蒸餾來制造更好的氣味，并發(fā)現(xiàn)了非油性香水背后的化學(xué)原理。

03

Chapter 3

Rome and Greece

羅馬和希臘

The Persians made perfume as a sign of their political prowess, but the Romans and Greeks viewed it as an art-form and started producing it consistently.

In Rome, Perfume was often used in ancient societies to bring believers closer to the gods and perfume was used in beauty products, public baths and even on the soles of feet.

The ancient Greeks and Romans documented their perfume makingstrategies carefully.

  波斯人將香水作為其政治威力的象征，但羅馬人和希臘人卻將香水視為一種藝術(shù)，并開始持續(xù)生產(chǎn)香水。

  在羅馬，香水在古代社會經(jīng)常被用來拉近信徒與神的距離。香水被用于各種美容產(chǎn)品、公共浴室，甚至是人們的腳底。

  古希臘和羅馬人詳細(xì)記錄了他們的香水制作方法。

04

Chapter 4

Mesopotamia and Indus Civilizations

美索不達(dá)米亞和印度河文明

A woman named Tapputi, the first recorded chemist was a perfume maker in Babylonian Mesopotamia. 

She developed techniques for scent extraction most notably techniques in using solvents.

These methods would eventually lay the foundation for perfume making. 

She recorded and passed on her techniques and methods. Perfumery also existed in the Indus civilization. 

One of the earliest distillation of oil was mentioned in a Hindu Ayurvedic text. They manufactured perfumes for royalty and queens of harems. 

  塔普提是巴比倫美索不達(dá)米亞第一個有記錄的化學(xué)家，也是的香水制造者。她開發(fā)了氣味提取技術(shù)，其中最著名的是溶劑提取技術(shù)。

  這些方法最終為香水的制作奠定了基礎(chǔ)。

  她記錄并傳授她的技術(shù)和方法，香水也存在于印度河文明中。

  印度阿育吠陀文獻(xiàn)中提到了最早的石油蒸餾之一。他們?yōu)榛适液秃髮m女王生產(chǎn)香水。

05

Chapter 5

Cyprus

 塞浦路斯

Archaeologists discovered a perfumery in Cyprus which is the oldest discovered perfume factory to date.

They say it was specialized in making perfumes which consisted of things like coriander, laurel, myrtle, lavender, and rosemary. 

The enormity of this site bears testimony to the fact that perfume was done on an industrial scale even 4000 years ago.

  考古學(xué)家在塞浦路斯發(fā)現(xiàn)了一家香水廠，這是迄今為止發(fā)現(xiàn)的最古老的香水工廠。

  據(jù)說這里專門制作香菜、月桂、桃金娘、熏衣草和迷迭香之類的香水。

  這個巨大的遺址證明了香水在4000年前就已經(jīng)有了工業(yè)規(guī)模。

01

Chapter 6

Ancient China

古代中國

The ancient Chinese used fragrance by burning fragrant materials. 

They were quite unique in their use of fragrance as they didn’t used it primarily for cosmetic purposes.

They used it for food, medicine, disinfection and purity. They believed good aromas could eliminate diseases from rooms. 

However, according to Chinese chemistry historians, some dynasties used personal perfumes a lot. 

Nobles competed for the best scents and imported ingredients via the Silk Road. During the Qing dynasty, the emperor seems to have carried a “perfume pouch” year-round, which was stuffed with fragrant herbs. 

  古代中國人通過燃燒香薰材料來散發(fā)香味。他們在香水的使用上是非常獨(dú)特的，因?yàn)樗麄儾话阉饕糜诨瘖y目的。

  他們把它用于食品、醫(yī)藥、消毒和凈化。他們相信好的香味可以消除房間里的疾病。然而，根據(jù)中國化學(xué)歷史學(xué)家的說法，一些朝代經(jīng)常使用個人香水。

  貴族們通過絲綢之路競相購買最好的香水和進(jìn)口原料。在清朝，皇帝似乎一年到頭都帶著一個“香囊”，里面塞滿了香辛料。

07

Chapter 7

Medieval Europe

中世紀(jì)歐洲

Knowledge of perfumes in Europe existed since the 14th century. Some partially credit this to Arabic influences. 

Liquid perfume was first made in Italy when Aqua Mirabilis was made. Thereafter, Italy, especially Venice became the perfume capital of the world for several hundred years. 

Catharina de Medici initiated the perfume industry in Europe when she left Italy in the 16th century to marry the French crown prince. 

During the renaissance in Italy, perfume making prospered. They discovered that animal-based products made great bases for scents. The trend of carrying a perfume in a small bag spread throughout Europe. 

They thought perfumes could fend off infections which they thought were transferred through air almost all of the time. 

The idea for portable perfumes made its way to Europe through crusaders returning to their mother land bringing perfumes of their enemies’ home.

The first alcohol-based modern perfume which was called Hungary water was made by the Hungarians during the 14th century by the request of queen Elizabeth of Hungary. It used alcohol, oils and herbs. 

The demand in Europe for Hungary water was very high until Eau de Cologne came into existence in Germany. 

  關(guān)于歐洲香水的知識始于14世紀(jì)，有些人把這部分歸功于阿拉伯的影響。

  液體香水最初是在意大利制造的。此后的幾百年里，意大利，尤其是威尼斯成為世界香水之都。

  16世紀(jì)，卡薩琳娜·德·美第奇(Catharina de Medici)離開意大利，嫁給法國王儲，開創(chuàng)了歐洲的香水產(chǎn)業(yè)。

  在意大利文藝復(fù)興時期，香水的生產(chǎn)繁榮起來。他們發(fā)現(xiàn)動物產(chǎn)品是制造香味的重要基礎(chǔ)原料。與此同時，用小袋子裝香水的趨勢傳遍了歐洲。

  他們認(rèn)為香水可以抵御感染，因?yàn)樗麄冋J(rèn)為病菌都是通過空氣傳播的。  通過十字軍戰(zhàn)士回到他們的祖國，便攜式香水被帶到歐洲了。 

  14世紀(jì)，應(yīng)匈牙利女王伊莉莎白的要求，匈牙利人制造了第一款以酒精為原料的現(xiàn)代香水，名為“匈牙利水”。它使用酒精、油和草藥。

  在德國出現(xiàn)古龍水之前，歐洲對匈牙利水的需求非常高。

08

Chapter 8

The Middle East

中東

Since the 6th century, perfumes have been involved in Islamic culture for religious traditions since the use is instructed even in Islamic literature. 

Traditional duties as such gave incentives to scholars to develop cheaper and more efficient ways to produce scents.

Consequently, Islamic cultures contributed immensely to the advancement of Western perfumery in two significant aspects: perfecting the extraction of fragrances through steam distillation and in introducing new raw materials.

Both have greatly influenced Western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry.

  從公元6世紀(jì)開始，香水就已經(jīng)融入了伊斯蘭文化的宗教傳統(tǒng)，因?yàn)槭褂孟闼踔猎谝了固m文獻(xiàn)中都有說明。

  傳統(tǒng)的職責(zé)促使學(xué)者們開發(fā)出更便宜、更有效的方法來制造香味。

  因此，伊斯蘭文化在兩個重要方面極大地促進(jìn)了西方香水的發(fā)展:通過蒸汽蒸餾完善香味的提取和引入新的原料。

  兩者都極大地影響了西方香水和科學(xué)的發(fā)展，尤其是化學(xué)。

01

Chapter 9

England

英格蘭

Scents were utilized in the highest rate in England during the rules of Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I. 

Every single public place was scented during the time of Queen Elizabeth’s control, since she despised bad stenches. 

It was a thing of pride for women of the day to make fragrances. Similar to arts and industries, perfuming experienced a revolution of sorts in the nineteenth century. 

Changing tastes and the advancement of alchemy to chemistry helped in establishing the frameworks of current perfumery.

  在亨利八世和伊麗莎白一世統(tǒng)治時期，英國人使用香水的頻率最高。

  在伊麗莎白女王統(tǒng)治時期，每個公共場所都散發(fā)著香味，因?yàn)樗梢晲撼簟?/span>

  制作香水是當(dāng)時女性的驕傲。與藝術(shù)和工業(yè)相似，香水在19世紀(jì)經(jīng)歷了一場革命。

  對香味品味的改變和煉金術(shù)向化學(xué)的發(fā)展幫助建立了現(xiàn)代香水的框架。

10

Chapter 10

Russia

俄羅斯

After 1861, perfume manufacture in Russia grew and became globally recognized by the dawn of the 20th century. 

In the 1930s, the production of perfume in the Soviet Union became a part of the planned economy, but the output was not as high as expected.

1861年以后，俄羅斯的香水制造業(yè)發(fā)展壯大，并在20世紀(jì)初得到全球認(rèn)可。

20世紀(jì)30年代，蘇聯(lián)的香水生產(chǎn)成為計(jì)劃經(jīng)濟(jì)的一部分，但產(chǎn)量并沒有預(yù)期的那么高。

11

Chapter 11

America

Explorers from New France brought colognes and scents to early America among which Florida water, a simple mixture of eau de cologne clove oil, cassia and lemongrass was famous. 

The Americans came up with the unisex fragrance which was a smooth fragrance that suited anyone.

  來自新法國的探險家把古龍水和香水帶到早期的美洲，其中著名的是叫做“佛羅里達(dá)水”，這是一種簡單的古龍水丁香油，桂皮和檸檬草的混合物。

  美國人發(fā)明了一種男女皆宜的香味，它是一種柔和的香味，適合任何人。

01

Chapter 12

Perfume in the Modern Age

Perfume making gradually increased as time went, and the population increased, and the world changed.

A significant change came in 1190, when perfume began to be produced commercially in Paris, and from there, it exploded into a massive industry. 

The French people’s willingness to explore unusual ingredients led to the discovery of iconic fragrances like Guerlain’s Shalimar.

In 1921, Chanel N°5, the first perfume made with synthetic ingredients, was made in Paris and remains the best-selling perfume of all time.

In the present, although France remains the center of perfume design and trade, America comes in a close second. 

Perfume is presently used almost every day by most people,.

Before work, a party or a wedding. It is used by everyone irrespective of social status or religion.

  隨著時間的推移，香水制造逐漸增多，人口增加，世界也發(fā)生了變化。

  1190年發(fā)生了一個重大的變化，香水開始在巴黎進(jìn)行商業(yè)生產(chǎn)，從那時起，它迅速發(fā)展成為一個龐大的產(chǎn)業(yè)。

  法國人樂于探索不同尋常的成分，這導(dǎo)致了像嬌蘭的沙利瑪這樣的標(biāo)志性香水的發(fā)現(xiàn)。

  1921年，第一款合成成分的香奈爾5號香水在巴黎問世，它一直是最暢銷的香水。

   目前，盡管法國仍然是香水設(shè)計(jì)和貿(mào)易的中心，但美國緊隨其后。

  現(xiàn)在大多數(shù)人幾乎每天都在使用香水。  上班前，參加派對或婚禮。不論社會地位或宗教信仰，人人都可以使用它。

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